Somewhere halfway down California's coast we began to encounter water. From here on, we traveled the ocean's edge, with a spectacular view.

Most of what we could see, both ahead and behind, were low, gently sloping plains that abruptly ended with a small cliff. The shoreline seemed to be etched into a series of large horseshoe curves that repeated for miles. Within these sheltered bays were narrow, isolated beaches. Mild waves continually broke along their shores.

Once we passed Santa Barbara, with its signature rows of palms, the coastline began to even out a bit. Along the shore, in lots of places, one could see surfers in wetsuits getting their exercise. Away from the shore, the artifacts of the San Andreas fault were commanding our attention.