For visiting tourists, Chicago is nothing without its name-brand stores and restaurants. What on Earth would downtown be without, say, Marshall Fields, or the Berghoff? Just another generic city with rows of franchised chain-stores?

Well, we actually might have to find out. Walking into Watertower Place, I was SHOCKED to learn that Marshall Fields' corner space was now occupied by a Macy's. How could that be? And the same seems to have transpired at Marshall Field's gigantic Loop location. Incredible!

A couple of months back, I was floored by the news that the Berghoff had closed. It didn't seem possible. On my first day back in the Windy City, I made a special point to walk past the iconic 107-year-old German restaurant to see if the story was true. Well, the sign was still there, and people were inside, but it was a new place, under brand new management.

In Chicago, integrating the old with the new seemed to be the order of the day. During the final few hours of my sojourn, a friend took me into the old Medinah Temple, a Moorish-style building where Shriners used to meet and put on their famous circus. Once inside, we came face-to-face with Bloomingdales' elegent and sophisticated Home Store.

Here, something was quite unusual. The architects had taken great care to maintain access to all of the structure's magnificent details. Their solution was essentially to build a box within a box. Cut into the walls of the store were holes, strategically placed to reveal the original stained glass windows. And where there had once been a grand auditorium, a third floor lifted you to the ceiling for a personal look at the spectacular dome and intricate trim. Well done, indeed.

Between these moments of entering and leaving Chicago, I had a number of satisfying meals. My charming hostess, CJ and I dined at our favorite sushi bar in Wicker Park called "Blue FIn". We also re-visited a spot long popular for wood-fired pizza called "Scoozi". On one evening, my pal Neil and I took in an institution called "Portillo's", known for it's tasty Italian beef and Polish sandwiches. Later, we made our way to the "Third Coast" cafe on Dearborn for hot scones and tea. It was a trip down Memory Lane.

As for shopping, a number of places drew my attention. An acquaintence from Kansas City had recently been transferred to Chicago by Garmin to work at their new Michigan Avenue outlet. Locating it, I was surprised to see it had replaced the old Sony store. Garmin's new venue was well-positioned, setting right next to "NikeTown" and two doors down from the Apple Computer Store.

A small, must-see boutique also brought much delight. "Lush" was a bountiful market of unique hand-made soaps. Artfully crafted, the displayed offerings seduced the senses with their mouth-watering colors and consistencies. Originally, CJ had brought these to my attention by situating a wedge on her bathroom counter.

Of course no trip to Chicago would be complete without a look at some reading material. Browsing Borders and the Virgin Superstore brings great comfort to the mind, as does scanning the corner newsstands. Excitement, though, comes from entering a more specialized place, the awesome "Prairie Avenue Bookstore" on Wabash. Surveying its interior, one cannot believe so many books have been published on architecture and graphics. As a designer, the shelved collection evokes a nearly religious experience.

The final spot I want to mention became a running gag throughtout my stay... American Girl Place. Riding the packed subway into town, I was nestled in a corner with a visiting family. The little girl sitting next to me had a doll and T-shirt saying American Girl Place New York. I asked her mother about their day's upcoming activities. AGP was first on their list.